Saturday August 13…Hogwarts

 

John and James take the car back to Middlesbrough and yet another train back to Whitby just in time to go back in time on the steam train to Pickering. We feel like we are overdosing on old railways and it is difficult to avoid clichés, but there really is something alive about a hissing, vibrating, smoking engine. We do all the usual tourist stuff including sticking our head out of the window and then forgetting just how many cinders these things chuck out. We even had sweets to match from the ubiquitous John Bull…peanut brittle, pineapple chunks, rhubarb and custard and cinder toffee. This could be a scene straight from Philip Larkin (if he wrote about sheep instead of weddings) with rural life floating past with the steam and smoke from the engine working hard up the gradient to the top of the moors. We have to stop ourselves slipping into mock Yorkshire (as along with the Chinese, there are probably some real ones on the train) as pretty stone stations complete with porters’ barrows slide past the old BR windows.

Pickering enabled us to top up on some warmer clothes, especially some snoods. They can look a bit like you are wearing underpants on your head, but who cares at sea as long as you are warm. Heydays crew not noted for sartorial elegance on the water. We also got to have a great lunch at the Black Swan including some beer and lager brewed on the premises.

We had to stop at Goathland Station on the way back as it was used for Harry Potter and various daughters/nephews require photos. It also came with a man in a uniform who clearly liked the power of station master; marching up and down shouting at people not to run jump spit smoke or swear. He failed to include heavy petting in his list of restrictions.

The moors are beautiful and we can’t resist a brief hike up…

Forecast for Sunday looking promising for a trip to Amble. This means getting through the swing bridge when it opens tonight at 23.30 and then grabbing a few hours’ kip in the inner harbour before a dawn tide. Wandering through Whitby we come across Magpies Café (along with quite a few others who are queuing outside). Although we are not soviet era Russians we join it anyway. This turns out to be one of the best fish meals we have had so far (apart from our own crab and lobster).

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We are the only boat holding up the traffic as we slide past the swing bridge onto a mooring pontoon just a bottle’s throw from the Saturday night hen and stag dos.

Friday August 12….York and Chris…eventually

 

Whitby in the morning light was beautiful and we are not sorry to be staying a couple of days.

Chris was due to get to York on the train around 1ish. Time for some lunch, gentle sightseeing etc. We thought that it would be easy to pick up a car in Whitby and drive to York to meet Chris. Turns out that we had to catch a train to Middlesbrough for the nearest rental, but the journey across the moors was delightful and it convinced us to take a ride on the North York Moors steam railway tomorrow.

Chaos on the East Coast main line meant that Chris had a rather fraught journey up while we spent a happy couple of hours in the National Railway Museum. Not only a great place for railway enthusiasts, it also provides a great social reflection as railways developed then declined and then started to rise again. Funnily enough, the old advertising pitch ‘This is the Age of the Train’, did not mention a certain disgraced DJ. There was even some nostalgia for Yee Tak as one of the exhibits included a monstrous Chinese steam engine (although actually built in UK) and a Japanese bullet train.

York was a great place just to wander and people watch and stroll by the river and Chris was even offered two canal boats plus bikes, chairs etc. for £70k…oddly she didn’t have the cash on her.

Dinner at Vertigo near the Shambles was great but John was clearly sickening for something as he couldn’t finish his ox cheek…or was this the Yorkshire Pudding we had first? This is unknown.

Thursday August 11…utter bilge.

 

It doesn’t take us long to find out the cause of the salt water problem. It turns out that the bilge pump shares the same sea cock as the fresh water tank overflow. Not only was our coffee last night salty, but it had also been sloshing around in the bilges for a while to add flavour. A trip to the excellent East Coast Marine for some brass fittings and we once again have fresh water.

The exit from Scarborough was a much less exciting affair than yesterday and Heydays punched into the last of the swell with ease and the sailing was glorious.

Pot buoys were a constant menace and one fishing boat was clearly of the opinion that we were too close, steering at us to make us change course. We felt like going back later to ‘borrow’ a crab or two… As castle rock fell away, we could make out Robin Hoods Bay, the imposing ruins of Whitby Abbey and then very faintly the entrance to Whitby.

We had half a mind to carry on to Hartlepool, but a strengthening wind on the nose and an increasing swell made up our minds for us and we started to look forward to a stay in Whitby, which several people had recommended anyway. The swing bridge to the marina only opens around two hours before high water so we moored at what we thought was the waiting pontoon and took the tender ashore to book a space in the marina and find a drink or two and some snacks as darkness fell and Whitby lit up.

A Contessa 26 called Me-Mo moored alongside us in the marina having been given the brush-off by a rather snooty lady in a big motor boat with a huge flat screen TV. We had seen Me-Mo in Grimsby although not to talk to, and we invited Mike and Diana on board for a few drinks and to compare notes. They are much more heroic than us and seem to tackle long rough passages with ease although there was a slight disagreement whether it was an exhilarating sail (Mike) or more of an endurance(Diana). Home for them is Amble and we hope to catch up with them again there.

Tuesday August 9 to Wednesday August 10…Night passage to Scarborough

 

Another day of pondering the forecasts and whether we can make Scarborough reasonably comfortably. In the end we decide that we can make the 60 mile or so overnight passage when the fish dock lock opens at 9pm. The alternator comes back with a clean bill of health but John, who is a local member and semi-retired engineer, ran it in to have it tested for us and then had to be persuaded to accept some reimbursement even for his petrol. Our impression of the Humber Cruising Association, already high, is further enhanced when we ask the yard master for directions to Tesco. ‘Not a problem’ he says, ‘I’ll run you in’. Maybe we will meet this level of friendliness and service elsewhere, but have certainly not encountered it ‘down south’. Grimsby has something of a bad press and several people suggested Wells instead, but for the passing sailor, the HCA is well worth a detour in our opinion.

The lobster and crab shells had been turned into a very rich stock by Yee Tak and this went in to the risotto for our meal before the sail to Scarborough. As the light faded we locked out of the dock and said goodbye to Grimsby and the Humber. The trip down the river to Spurn Head turned out to be more exciting than we had planned, with huge amounts of ship movements up and down the multiple main channels.

We finally scuttled across to the relative safety of Spurn Head as darkness fell and picked our way cautiously around the Binks shoals. The seas started to build but once we were into deeper water the swell became quite long and Heydays settled into a slightly easier motion. Wind farms were our companion for several hours and made steering very straightforward. As the night wore on the wind and seas were on the nose with an uncomfy chop added to the significant swell. Dawn was a mixed blessing. It is always good to see the light appearing in the sky after a night at sea, but it also meant we could see the waves as they approached. Off Flamborough Head we were estimating the height between 3 and 4m but Heydays never once faltered, rising smoothly up and over and only occasionally burying her head briefly on the plunge down the other side.

Spotting pot buoys became almost impossible and even the few fishing boats which were out disappeared into the troughs, re-appearing minutes later with (un-life jacketed) men hauling lines on board.

We could see the waves breaking heavily on the shore and started to think about the entrance to Scarborough. This shoals towards the shore and requires a sharp turn to make the harbour. We did not fancy the prospect of breaking seas close in and started to consider the unappealing prospect of continuing to Hartlepool as the only safe refuge on this stretch of the coast.  Perhaps it was tiredness or just the optimism of seeing our landfall, but one more surprise was in store. The town which we had convinced ourselves was Scarborough was in fact Filey…the wrong side of Filey Brigg headland. A course correction and gradually the real Scarborough opened up, glinting deceptively in the morning sun. We radioed the harbour master and received both reassurance and directions for the best approach. He even said that he would meet us on the dock to take lines and be ready with all the usual key fobs and toilet codes. Coming from the sea dressed in all our wet weather gear we were soon very over-dressed compared to the shorts and T-shirted holiday-makers watching us from the sea wall as we made our entrance. True to his word, the harbour master greeted us cheerily on the pontoon and once Heydays was snug we caught up on a night’s sleep pondering the vagaries of forecasts and especially the surprising seas which had made their way to meet us from the earlier gales off Scotland.

Scarborough turns out to be a funny mixture of fishing port (still a few traditional trawlers active), traditional seaside town with endless arcades and fish and chips, candy floss and do-nuts, topped off  with some real grandeur in hotels and gardens.

We were in and out of a few bars searching for some decent beer and eventually found it in the delightful Golden Ball, which also turned out to be the closest to Heydays. Dinner on board tonight…smoked mackerel, avocado, tomato and olive oil to start, with the last of the ratatouille and pasta to follow….and an early night. The bedtime coffee tastes strangely of salt…so does the tea…so does the ‘fresh’ water in the newly fitted tanks. We’re too tired to do anything about it tonight but this will have to be sorted in the morning….can’t wait!

Monday August 8…beside the seaside, beside the sea, or a trip back in time.

 

Our original passage plan is to leave tonight for an overnight passage to Scarborough. The ever smiling Carol Kirkwood, or whoever creates the weather has clearly not been receiving our messages, as the forecast is for strong north westerlies (bang on the nose) with gales just to the north of us. The choice this time was easy and we stay put. James has not spent enough time in the cockpit locker recently and so he and John decide to tackle a niggling fault with the alternator. Once again the helpful folk here come to the rescue and off it goes for testing…

So, a day at leisure in Grimsby. Cleethorpes is recommended and we take a train to see the sea. Next to us are a couple…she in a fifties dress he in rocker gear with a Hells Angels motif on the leather jacket. His badge says ‘Arthritis Club…Ibprofen Chapter.’ How we identify with that…

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We step off into a world of yesteryear. Replace the cars with Ford Prefects and we could be back in the fifties. John and James are instantly thrown into their childhoods of sand castles, rock, gritty sandwiches and fish and chips for supper. Back into this century and the T shirts give away the holiday makers with Liverpool, Man U and City all well represented. We all have grins on our faces as we stroll past the donkey riders, the sand tunnel diggers and the Dads ‘burying’ their children.

Resisting the crazy golf and the grab a cuddly toy machines, we take a miniature steam train along the front and back…even waving to complete strangers as we pass.

We had thoughts about walking back along the sea wall to Grimsby but are seduced by fish chips and mushy peas sitting on a bench on the front. The seagulls here are much better behaved than the greedy b*****s in Bridport and only a passing husky takes any interest.

Oddly, a pub called Willys with a microbrewery persuades us to wash down supper with some Willys Original before we catch the single coach train back to Grimsby. Would we ever have made a specific trip to Cleethorpes…probably not. Would we recommend it to anyone reading this…absolutely.

Over coffee and cognac the forecasts start to look good for Scarborough tomorrow night. Hopefully we will be joined by Chris there before continuing up to Hartlepool, Amble, Eyemouth and Arbroath and beyond. Space for two more on board!!!

Sunday August 7…and on the Sabbath…

 

…they slept. A quick forty winks turns into deep sleep until 12.30. We trundle over to the showers and luxuriate in the warm water washing away the inevitable salt and general grubbiness of a long overnight passage. Having made ourselves almost respectable we spent a happy hour or so in the club bar. The marina in Grimsby is run by the (mostly) volunteers of the Humber Cruising Association and they have to be one of the most friendly and welcoming we have met and provide some cheap beer to boot. They are making a real go of creating a great destination for cruisers and certainly deserve some real support from the local council, to help develop the infrastructure around them.

We all have very mixed feelings as we walk around the old port. Once the greatest fish dock in the world, the market now deals in frozen fish brought in overland by lorry. Even the once massive rail-head is now decayed and derelict.

The people in the bar clearly are of the opinion that their demise is due to unfair quotas and the French and Spanish not obeying EU rules, while we did and died as a result. This was not the time or place to discuss politics or the overfishing (by us mostly) of the North Sea stocks in the fifties and sixties. Was our very efficient and huge fleet sailing out of Grimsby in its hay day the master of its own eventual decline? Sitting in a decaying dock it is certainly very tempting to seek scapegoats in the form of remote folk in French or Spanish trawlers or even in Brussels, but that does not absolve us from our own actions in the past however uncomfortable that thought is.

To lighten the mood we had a late lunch in the cockpit under a gloriously sunny sky, treating ourselves to the crab washed down with a bottle of Cava. Life for us is looking good and we genuinely feel very lucky to be able to see more of our country including places we would not otherwise have thought of as holiday destinations.

Saturday August 6…More quandaries

 

The first is not really a quandary….do we buy a lobster off the boat or lobster and crab? In the end both end up in a pot loaned to us by the fishermen who had been doing a spot of fishing before attending to their main business of diving trips. Having said goodbye to Paul, the next quandary was (as always) the wind. Initial forecast suggested SW F4 or 5 going round to the W (still OK) but with gusts up to F7 (not OK).  The other issue was a classic error in calculating the opening time of Grimsby dock locks. It was looking like we were going to miss the entrance and be faced with an 8 hour wait at anchor in some potentially strong winds. We called the dock master and decided that with a faster passage time which the winds could enable, we would just about make it if we motor-sailed.

Lunch on the lobster in the cockpit with just bread and lemon was heaven and set us up in a good mood for our planned 102 mile, 22 hour overnight passage to Grimsby.

Yee Tak made some ratatouille to heat up during the night and we left Lowestoft (the most easterly point of our trip) into a very choppy sea. The south westerly was kind to us and with double reefed main and a couple of rolls in the genoa Heydays was scudding along at over 7 knots. Great Yarmouth and the Norfolk coast seemed to whizz past and soon we were starting to turn west towards the wash and the Lincolnshire coast. The wind eased as a sure sign of a change in direction and we turned on the engine to maintain the speed. As the sun began to drop we dined on ratatouille and new potatoes. Simple food always tastes so good outdoors and we felt set up for the night to come as Cromer, Sheringham and Wells disappeared astern in the increasing dusk.

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Sure enough, the wind began to fill again from the West although there was a little too much north in it for comfort. With a building sea we decided to drop the main and continue motoring with just a scrap of genoa. The motion became immediately more comfortable and yet we were still keeping a boat speed of over 6 knots although now with some foul tide for probably the next 5 hours. The sun finally disappeared just before 9 although we still had light in the sky for another one and a half hours. With a cross sea and a fluky wind, steering required a lot of concentration and turned out to be more than the auto helm could comfortably cope with.  The route was busier than we expected with fast cats servicing the wind farms shooting past and larger freighters not much slower (from our perspective). We kept checking that nothing was creeping up from behind whilst also making sure we kept right to the very edge of the channel. Before midnight we could no longer make out the Norfolk coast but then Lincolnshire started to make itself known. Somewhere (Skegness?) we were treated to a very distant firework display, but more worryingly we were also treated to some lightening…not good with a big bit of metal stuck up into the air. By two in the morning we were experiencing some very strong gusts just under gale force and yet Heydays behaved impeccably. Coffee and biscuits cheered us up and we began to search for signs of lightness in the eastern sky. By four we could definitely start to see each other again and realised that with such rapid progress, we were in danger of getting to Grimsby too early for the dock gates. We throttled right back and still we seemed to fly along at over 5 knots. Purists will be asking why we kept the motor running, to which or response is that it helped maintain a steadier course than with what was effectively just a storm jib. The other response is why would we lug half a tonne of metal around the ocean and not use it…each to their own.

Breakfast in the daylight on smoked salmon sandwiches and cheese sandwiches with more coffee to keep us awake saw us ticking off the buoys into the mouth of the Humber one by one and starting our countdown to Grimsby. At six we were getting close but a combination of spring tides and high pressure was delaying the gate opening by around 40 minutes. So after 17 hours sailing we retraced our steps and chuffed around in the river for what seemed an age until the dock master radioed to allow us in.

18 hours after leaving Lowestoft we were tied up snugly on a visitors berth and 30 minutes later the only sound to be heard from Heydays was the increasing wind whistling through the rigging and the zzzs from the three of us.

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Friday August 5…An unexpected departure

 

One day sailing and already feeling gloomy about the progress of the trip. The steering cable had been chaffed through and we were not hopeful about the prospects of getting an engineer out. We were already working out how to get Paul to a train as it was looking increasingly unlikely that we would make Lowestoft on the tide. In fact we were considering the best way to spend a happy weekend in Harwich. However we had reckoned without Fox’s in Ipswich. After an early morning call, they made up new cables and got out to us in just over an hour having rearranged some other work to help us out. With the total fitting taking only 2 hours we still had time to get away before 2. This was a brilliant service from Karl Mark and Lucy in the office, for whom nothing seemed too much trouble.

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It was with much lighter hearts that we dropped out of the marina lock and we had the sails up before we had even left the Stour. The tide raced us on past the entrance to the Deben into entirely new waters for us. We rounded Orford Ness and the wind, which had been playing increasingly hard to get became so fickle that we resorted to the engine to make the best of the rest of the tide up to Lowestoft. Paul became our human vang for a few miles…

 

 

We called ahead to the harbourmaster to book a berth for the night but were told that Lowestoft Sea Week meant that the yacht club marina was ‘rammed’ and they were already rafted up three deep. We carried on trying to get through to Hamilton Dock without success, but in the end just decided to go in anyway and squeeze ourselves in.  The pictures show just how much of a squeeze it was…. Rammed here has a very different feel than trying to find space in Yarmouth (IoW not Great) on a Sunday lunchtime.

The old fish docks and associated infrastructure have not been used for their original purpose for a long time and regeneration on the scale of the old London docks or Bristol or even Gloucester seems a long way away. There are no signs of boutique restaurants or olive oil drizzlers here. However there are efforts to attract leisure sailors such as ourselves and the facilities were warm, clean and very effective. There is also something of a developing trade in renewable energy with boats servicing the multiple offshore windfarms, together with some solar and even tidal operators beginning to establish bases. Perhaps the real lesson for the future is never again to rely on single industries for financial and employment security.

A pub serving locally brewed beer together with some good fish ended the day in decent style.

Thursday August 4….Will we won’t we?

 

A weather forecast of strongish SW winds including the promise of F7 gusts leaves us in a quandary.  The direction is great for us but strong winds over the mud can be quite uncomfortable, however the wind is expected to ease later but helpfully go round to be on the nose all the way! In the event and after some indecision not helped by a neighbour who clearly thinks that we are effete southern wimps, we catch the last of the high tide and leave Tollesbury for the last time (probably). We are glad to be on our way, but sad to leave this bit of Essex where we have experienced a full range of the joys and frustrations of owning a boat. The Essex rivers have been a delight and Essex itself simply does not deserve the reputation so many outsiders have of it. We have met some really friendly people and experienced a much more personal service than many of the more ‘professional’ yards in the south. A big thank you to Julian, Martin, Tim, Adrian (the rum king), everyone in the club restaurant and bar and RIP Brian who passed away earlier this year.

The strong winds have not materialised and by the time we are easing out of the creek we have our genoa up and are feeling Heydays pressing us ever further north. West Mersea and Brightlingsea slip astern and even Clacton pier looks inviting in the sunshine.

John is at the helm and halfway through a planned gybe he appears to be uncharacteristically slack in his steering. It turns out that the slackness is not entirely his, but stems from a complete lack of ability to steer at all. A rapid taking down of sails and we are now drifting uncomfortably close to the mud flats of Walton on the Naze. Fortunately we have an emergency tiller, unfortunately the operator has to be in the aft cabin with no visibility of the outside world. We have a flashback to the Golden Shot (older readers only) as John (still standing by a redundant wheel) shouts “10 degrees to Port” to Paul in the companionway who shouts “left a bit” to James who responds almost instantaneously with “what…say again”. By which time John needs Starboard 20 degrees…..

This clearly isn’t working as even a casual observer would notice a very erratIMG-20160808-WA0043ic yacht and not one you would wish to have steering down the main channel into Felixstowe. The solution which is eventually reached, involves James standing with his head just visible through the hatch and the tiller clamped firmly (as decency and probably the law allows) between his buttocks and doing a strange cross between Lindy Hop and belly dancing to maintain a semblance of a straight line.

 

We decide to head for Shotley Marina in the hope that we can find a mechanic to sort the steering. The lock keeper is apprised of the situation (not James’ buttocks) and has everything ready for us as we head slightly unsteadily for the lock entrance. Surprisingly, we moor up without taking out too many other boats and after extricating James from the emergency tiller we decide that several stiff drinks are appropriate and we end up having a great night in the Shipwreck (how appropriate) by the marina.

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Wednesday August 3…Is this really it?

 

After so many false starts and setbacks it would appear that the boat has a fully functioning everything…although doubts probably remain about the owners. Yee Tak, James and John are sadly without Chris who is fighting her own battles with builders, but we are joined by Paul for a couple of days, presumably to ensure that we actually get to leave Essex. It turns out that Wednesday is remarkably relaxed and we even have time to take a last(?) walk around the Essex marshes at Tollesbury. We really have grown to love this place though we don’t really count ourselves as ‘East Coast Sailors’…even we can’t get used to so much mud. The plan is to leave on the morning tide out of the marina and make for the rivers Stour or Orwell as the first leg of the trip to Scotland. The weather forecast may have other plans.