We spent much too little time in Ballycastle,  as we leave with a feeling of wanting to get to know it much more. There is an imperative to get to Coleraine and under the lifting railway bridge, before the marina stops for the night.

By 10.15 we are ready and on our way out of the little harbour,  vowing to return…

We knew in advance that we would need to plug some foul tides today, and that with very little wind in the forecast, that would mean burning some diesel ‘in the old iron tops’l’ as sailors probably never used to say. Actually,  Heydays is happy to push along like this, and we settled in to one of those bright, sunny, but very crisp autumn days, on a calm sea, just watching the rugged coastline drift past…

There is a slight breeze once we are further out and beyond Rathlin Island,  and we get the main sail up. There’s not enough to push us along at anything over a knot over the ground, but it gives us a little, and so we are a bit like a hybrid.

A quick explanation….Heydays is not the fastest of boats, and her natural cruising speed through the water is around 5 knots, unless we push her really hard either under sail or motor…and that makes everything less comfy, especially on the longer passages. However, when the water is heading solidly in the opposite direction,  its a bit like running up the down escalator, so for us, speed over the ground is more important.

Around the headlands today, there is quite a bit of stronger current against us, and also associated rougher water. We keep further offshore to avoid the worst, but then try to duck back inshore to find the slower currents….but on a wonderful day like this, its just great to be out on the water, and we are still on track to get up the river Bann to Coleraine before everything is shut.

We sail past the basalt cliffs of the Giants Causeway, but with the sun in our eyes, we don’t really get the full majesty…

…and then! We’re treated to just about the best dolphin display. The pod is one of the biggest we’ve seen and it seems as though they just want to play…apologies for the length of the second video, but we just couldn’t stop…

This was one of those magical moments that will stay with us for ever. We were left with just big grins on our faces, and a feeling that we have witnessed something really special.

Sadly we need to bear away towards the entrance to the river Bann, and the dolphins give a last few jumps, and then they are gone, off to Lough Foyle.

We approach the entrance around low water, and call ahead to the Harbourmaster to arrange for the railway bridge to be lifted.

The entrance itself is narrow, and the sea builds up…

…but soon we’re through and motoring up stream, past the herons, oystercatchers, and other birds making the most of what can be had before the tide returns…

A cormorant watches us slide past…

…and an egret seems anxious that we might disturb its fish supper.

We get the impression that this is not the busiest of rivers, as a couple of seals can’t even be bothered to move…

We approach the railway bridge a few minutes early….and hang about until the train is through and the bridge begins to lift…

As good as their word…someone is on the pontoon ready to take lines, and then all of a sudden the trip is over and we’ve arrived.

Denise and Lisa in the harbourmaster’s office have been amazing. All instructions, gate codes and even train times to Belfast airport are ready and waiting for us, they really could not have done more for us. We immediately feel so relaxed now about leaving the old girl here over winter.

One recommendation they give us is for the Queens Arms….about a full 100m from the boat. With a modicum of tidying, we trundle over and have a small drink or two and are immediately made to feel welcome by Terry behind the bar. He’s fascinated by the trip, and even knows Lymington as he bought himself a rib there a few years ago.

Back on board, with what turns out to be a brilliant dinner made up of food on board, which needs eating up, we reminisce about this last leg of our cruise….

…from Malahide, where we were subject to crane failures and 4 days of gales blowing through, to Carlingford Lough where we waited for yet another gale to blow across, up to Glenarm in a long leg which caught up our schedule, the careful planning for Rathlin sound with its awesome tides and waves, to Ballycastle and finally this last stunning leg to Coleraine with the dolphins.

The journey has been memorable, but in many ways, and even more incredible, is the amazing welcome we have had from harbourmasters, bar staff and owners, and just ordinary folk we have met along the way.