We had planned to cruise rather more slowly up the East Coast in a similar way to the south, but with niggling doubts over the engine and some north in the wind at the end of the week, we decide to push north sooner. Arklow if the tide holds and the wind is fair.

The 5.15 alarm goes off while it is still dark….this can’t be natural. But with a forced ‘good morning ‘ to each other, we each go about all the usual tasks, both personal and boaty, with little being said…a smoothly oiled machine (in our dreams!).

With fresh coffee inside our mugs, we slip the mooring and head off to the diesel pontoon which is fortunately a self service.  A couple of small fishing boats are already on the move as we head out in the company of another yacht. This is like Piccadilly Circus compared to everywhere else so far.

Heading back out towards the Saltee Islands, we turn East and immediately feel the benefit of the young flood tide and with a decent puff and full sail, we are, for us, screaming along at least over the ground if not through the water. The clouds are a bit threatening and with the sun refusing to show, one by one we all end up with more layers in the chill morning.

In less than an hour, Carnsore point is abeam, with its windfarm and slightly desolate air like many such headlands.

With calm seas and a steady breeze, we can take turns to catch up on sleep, and still the land and, in the distance, Tuskar Rock slips by…

The only action required, apart from watching for pot buoys, is to alter course slightly to pass astern of the Ferry coming out of Rosslare and bound for Fishguard? Pembroke? Or even Cherbourg?

A couple of boats have been keeping us company since Carnsore point, at times ahead and then at times slipping astern. We opt for the inshore passage among the many banks and shallows along this section of the Irish coast and comfortingly, so do they…..but who is following who?

As the breeze becomes lighter, so the clouds part and the sun drives off the previous layers of gear. We enjoy an enormously satisfying run with goosewinged genny. Not normally easy, but the conditions are perfect…

Our companions continue running, presumably to the flesh pots of Dun Laoghaire, and we turn in to Arklow.

The large green buildings must be the most glamorous sewage treatment ever…

And then here we are, through the entrance and heading up river…

The marina is the most expensive yet, and we are rafted up, but the location on the river is fine. We snooze a bit, shop at the local Aldi a bit, and then after some nosh on board,  set out to taste the highlights of Arklow.

We are conflicted, to be honest, the town was once hugely prosperous due to its explosives factory and has since faced some decline. The old docks are replaced by a huge gated community and a big shopping centre, but over the river in the old town, there are lots of boarded up shops and an air of decay. We search for a small pub with the type of warm welcome we’ve had so far, but nothing comes remotely close to Cronins, or The Anchor, or The Oar , or…..

We have a pint at Christies, but it feels soulless, even sitting by the river.

Back on Heydays we invite a couple over  for a chat. They are from Oban but have visited the outer Hebrides and know it well. We tap them shamelessly  for local knowledge and learn about their trips in their Rustler 36. We get the low-down on their amazing voyages and wish them luck for their early start tomorrow (4am). Tim and Ann in Restless, are off to Spain….around six days of sailing and will then do Madeira, the Azores and the Carribean.